Im sure someone will know the answer.Havent had that with Ben-Ive met 1 lady with her Lab,she tells me her dogs had extensive training not to jump up-its jumped at me EVERY time,She screams Avoid eye contact at me :lol:

This can be very difficult - it depends what you deem to be acceptable behavior. We do allow Willow to go and greet other dogs. I always follow her and generally she just has a good sniff around while I wait nearby. Once she has sniffed, she is on her way back. I did find that when we tried to stop her from seeing other dogs, she became a bit of a problem. I had to accept that she is a dog and wants to be with other dogs. Obviously there are occasions when letting your dog go and greet is not practical. Just like you did with the going up and down the stairs, let her off the lead a bit at a time. Let her go a few yards, call her back and reward with a treat and a good girl. Put her back on the lead and then keep repeating and leaving the recall a little longer. Don't reward with a treat every time, give her a little pat sometimes, othertimes have a little play, or take the brush and give her a groom and a massage. Willow is trained to recall on the whistle for my husband (she is in training to be a working dog) and my voice. Your recall needs to be a fairly exciting one! Dogs don't do monotone! Clapping and waving/higher pitched voice (demented nutter mode we call it!) and when she is almost back with you, bend down to her level. Once she realises just what a fab mum you are, she will be far more responsive when other people or dogs arrive! Just one tip though, if she does slip up, don't holler and scream - your body language will give you away and guess who isn't coming anywhere near you! Calmly retrieve and put her back on the lead whilst muttering under your breath! Willow's behaviour was quite unacceptable on some occasions at the beginning and I can honestly say that no other dog owner has taken offence. In fact, they are usually very interested to hear you have rescued a dog and before long, you have a new set of friends for walking with. I don't know any of the names of the owners but we all know the life history of all the dogs - mad eh!

I'm afraid as B&Y says, this is all down to training and motivation, although your girl may be a little less hyper once she settles down into her new lifestyle a bit more. A dog will repeat any behaviour that it finds rewarding. This is the golden rule of all dog training :wink: The reward is not always obvious to humans - it might be a treat that you are offering, or if you are a harsh trainer (please don't be!) the reward might just be the dog knowing that it will not be punished. If you are in the kitchen, or walking somewhere boring, then there isn't much incentive for it to wander off if you are practising recalls - especially if treats are on offer. You have the best reward on offer. But if you are in a wood full of people and other dogs, then there may be a huge incentive to go off and greet other people and dogs - especially if she is rewarded by the other dog having a game with her, or the people petting her. That may be 100 times more rewarding in her eyes than the measly dog biscuit you were going to give her!!! A reliable recall is the thing everyone would like to have, but few dogs will just do it automatically. Most dogs will do it if there aren't too many distractions competing for their attention. It's up to you how you view that. If you want something better than that, you have to practise, practise, practise :? If you do that, the recall just becomes automatic in pretty much every situation. I would tackle this in 3 ways: * make it impossible to disobey. If you are just standing there calling and calling, she will just learn to ignore you when she is engrossed in something else. So you have the choice: physically prevent her from ignoring you eg by having her on a long line when in distracting places - or just don't call her if you know she will ignore the word 'come' at that moment. Or you could walk her somewhere where there isn't much esle competing for your attention and you know she will come when called. * Be extremely interesting and unpredictable to be with, wherever you are. Change direction frequently on walks - even hide - so she learns that if she wanders off past a certain distance you will disappear. Many rescue dogs are keen to keep you in their sights. Really take time to work out what she likes best in life - is it balls? if so, hard or squishy ones? footballs? tennis balls? knobbly plastic ones? Does she prefer to play catch (be careful with tennis balls going down a dog's throat). Does she prefer to chase a ball? Or hunt for one you've hidden in bushes? Or retrieve it from water? Or does she prefer squeaky toys? Or tuggy games? Or just hunting on the ground for bits of smelly cheese or frankfurter? If you find the thing that really floats her boat and keep it in a cupboard or generally unavailable so that it's only available on walks, she will be much more focussed on you. Basically, you will be in control of the 'reward' that she wants and she will have to be with you to get it. These things can take time to build up, and it is very early days for you. * Pracitse off-lead recalls in places where she can get it right - the house, your garden, even a tennis court in the park. Eventually it will become automatic. But the jump from a perfect recall in your quiet kitchen to a perfect recall from a fleeing squirrel in the woods, or away from another dog and owner on the other side of the park, is a huge one. There might be 5 or 10 steps in between those two things and you need to practise each increasingly more difficult recall until that is 100 per cent, before moving on to the next one up the ladder. So the progression of training might be: kitchen, garden, boring car park or tennis court, empty park, park with one person miles away, etc etc. Always set her iup to succeed and earn rewards. Dog training classes can help with this, but I wouldn't put her through the stress and excitement of that until you've had her at least 3 months. It also helps to be alert, but calm, so that if you see someone approaching you can redirect her attention onto a toy or sitting for a treat. Her body language will tell you if she's about to bolt - is her vision suddenly locking onto something and her ears going forward? Get in FAST and get her attention. As I said, some people don't want to do all that work - it's personal choice. You could just walk her in places where you won't see other people, or where you are away from wildlife or busy roads and be satisfied that she will come to you nearly all of the time. In the meantime, here is some very good advice on recall training: http://www.takingthelead.co.uk/3/BehAdv/recall.htm